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Forest Restoration
We now provide forest restoration services. For more information, visit
the forest restoration page.
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Water Features
Looking for that perfect koi pond, waterfall, or garden fountain?
See what we can do!
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Few projects are more rewarding than successfully establishing
a landscape planting of trees and shrubs. Whether it's a plan designed by a
landscape architect or simply a planting of a single plant, a successful
planting is usually the result of careful planning. Consideration of the
planting site, plant selection, planting methods and post-planting care are
vital to success.
Site selection and plant considerations. Site and plant selection are closely
related. It isn't always possible to select ideal sites in a given landscape and
care must be taken to match the plant material to the site. An important factor
to consider is the past history of the site. If other plants have died or grown
poorly on the site, it would be important to determine the cause before
replanting there. If the site has never been planted before, then attention to
the site needs will help prevent failures.
Consideration of the root zone is probably the most important. Without adequate
aeration and moisture and proper fertility, root growth will be limited. Poorly
drained soils or soils that have been compacted by heavy traffic can often be
improved. Leaving these problems uncorrected reduces a plants chances for
survival. If the roots of other surrounding trees and shrubs are growing in the
planting area, competition for moisture and nutrients may be a problem. Close
proximity to paved areas and structures may limit root growth as well.
Evaluating soil pH and fertility in advance with a soil test can prevent serious
problems. Most of these problems can be avoided by either altering the site,
choosing the appropriate plant material or both.
Above ground considerations include light and moisture availability and exposure
to adverse weather and traffic. Sites that are shaded by structures or other
plants will not support plants that require full sun. Conversely, full sun
locations may not be ideal for plants that have low light requirements. The
availability of irrigation water is important, especially in the first year
after planting. Areas that are not convenient to irrigate regularly are best
left to plants that are able to withstand drought conditions. Sites exposed to
climate extremes such as high or freezing temperatures usually require hardy
plant material. Sites near areas of heavy traffic are best planted with material
that can withstand trampling and abrasion.
Finally, some consideration of plant needs and growth habits is important.
Plants requiring little care are more suited for remote areas whereas those with
more needs can be planted in areas that can be cared for more intensively.
Selection of plants for the landscape can be a challenge. Plants that have been
grown in field or container nurseries are usually more easily adapted to a wide
variety of sites. Plants from nurseries have the advantage of well developed
root systems that make plantings more successful. Field grown plants usually
have a wrapping of burlap or plastic around the root ball or are occasionally
available in a bare root condition. Container grown plants are usually grown in
soilless media and the root balls fit the shape of the container.
Planting considerations. Plants are most successfully established in the forest
landscape when as little time as possible elapses between obtaining the plants
and planting. When it's necessary to keep plants for a few days prior to
planting, they will require regular waterings and are best kept in a shady
location.
For most soils, the planting hole usually needs to be only as deep as the root
ball of the plant. In sandy soils, somewhat deeper can be helpful. A hole width
twice the diameter of the root ball is usually suitable. Contact between the
shovel and the sides of the hole can result in a glaze that can prevent root
growth out into the surrounding soil. Glazing can be avoided by scratching the
sides of the hole before placing the plant. Although it's a popular practice,
adding a layer of sand or organic matter to the bottom of the hole usually has
no benefit and, in many cases can be detrimental.
Prior to planting, plastic wrappings or containers need to be removed from the
root balls. Burlap wrappings can remain in the ground and will eventually
degrade. It is helpful to arrange the roots of bare root plants in the hole in a
way that minimizes circling roots that could eventually strangle the plant. Root
balls of container grown plants need to be vertically cut in several spots
around the ball to discourage circular root growth.
Because a certain amount of settling will occur, the root ball needs to be
placed in the hole so that the original soil line is slightly higher than that
of the surrounding soil. After settling, the soil lines will eventually match.
When setting the plant in the hole, consideration of its appearance is
important. It's always worth the time to step back from the planting to see how
the plant looks with regard to its surroundings before backfilling. It is also
wise to consider setting the plant in a way that avoids future problems with
branches extending into areas of activity such as roads and power lines.
Backfilling planting holes has been the subject of considerable research over
the years. It has been traditionally assumed that amending the backfill soil
with organic matter such as peat moss or compost improves the plant's chances
for survival. It's important to remember, however, that the plantings that are
most successful are those where the roots grow out into the surrounding soil
quickly. Amending the backfill soil frequently does nothing more than provide a
favorable environment for roots that discourages extensive growth. Plants
without extensive root growth are more susceptible to injuries due to stresses
such as drought, moisture excesses, insects and diseases. Addition of fertilizer
to the backfill soil is usually not necessary.
Backfilling around plants is best accomplished when air spaces are minimized to
avoid problems such as soil collapse and roots drying. Careful backfilling will
help improve the contact between the roots and soil. Root balls that are covered
with burlap can be partially backfilled before loosening the wrap. After folding
the wrap back, it can be completely covered with the remaining soil. After
backfilling, the soil can be thoroughly watered to improve the contact between
soil and roots. Future irrigations will be aided by the formation of a basin
above ground. This can be done by forming a berm of soil in a circle around the
plant roughly the same circumference as the planting hole. This basin allows
irrigation water to gather above ground to insure more thorough wetting of the
soil.
Postplanting care. The most important need for the first growing season is
water. Most recently planted material require 1-1.5 inches of irrigation or
rainfall water per week during the growing season. Water is equally necessary
during dormant seasons although the volumes needed are less. Required water can
be more effectively applied in one or two thorough applications than in several
small applications.
It is usually not necessary to prune nursery grown plants at planting time
unless for shaping purposes. If adequately watered, most plants are able to
support the top growth. Any top growth that dies back in the first year can be
pruned away the following spring.
In general, trees and shrubs need not be staked at planting except when it's
necessary to anchor the roots, protect the plant from mechanical damage or the
plant is unable to stand without support. Staking trees usually results in trees
that are less stable when the stakes are removed making them more susceptible to
injuries. When stakes are used, it is best to limit their use to one or two
seasons.
Transplanting trees and shrubs. It is occasionally necessary to transplant
desirable or valuable trees and shrubs from one location to another. The
principles of planting such plants are similar to planting nursery grown
material. Plants with shallow, fibrous root systems usually transplant easier
than those with a few large roots. Transplanting shrubs is usually more
successful than trees and transplanting deciduous plants is usually more
successful than evergreens.
Generally, the more roots that can be transplanted with the plant, the more
successful the planting will be. One method to increase root volumes is to root
prune the plant in advance of transplanting. Ideally, root pruning takes place
at least 4-6 months before transplanting and involves cutting around the plant
with a spade at the circumference of the desired root ball and to the depth of
the spade. This will sever the roots, usually encouraging the plant to grow new
roots within the root ball thereby increasing the number of roots transplanted.
Transplanting is best accomplished when the plant is not growing. For deciduous
plants and broadleaf evergreens, early spring is usually best. For conifers,
early fall or early spring works well. It's important to remove a soil ball
along with the plant to minimize the impact to the roots. Dry soil can be
watered to help the soil remain in a ball. For best results transplants should
be out of the ground for as brief a period as possible. If a plant must spend
any length of time out of the ground prior to replanting, the root ball can be
wrapped in burlap or placed in a large container, watered thoroughly and stored
in a shady location.
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